Archive for October, 2006

Combini Battle! Ossss!

So I’m at my local Family Mart today, looking for a little deep fried action. I head over to the drink cooler and grab myself a diet coke. At that moment, I see her out of the corner of my eye. There is a woman, making a motion towards the fried food area near the til. What am I going to do? The last time I was here, they were all out of tasty hot dogs and croquettes. The guy in front of me ordered up all of the meat stick awesomeness, leaving me holding the bag. I cannot fail this time. I need to act quickly. It’s me or her, and the artery clogging goodness is on the line.

I make a mad dash past the porno magazines and women’s underwear and cross over into the cup ramen aisle. But it’s no good. She is faster than I am. I need to think. Then, I am given the break of a lifetime. She hits the line, and ends up stuck in front of some older woman who decides today is the day to have all of her bills paid. Here is my chance. I go up behind her and wait patiently. I’m hoping the other clerk will see the line and hop on a til.

Bingo. She’s on her way.

In Canada, I would have let the person in front of me go on ahead to the open til. But Japan that would have been a very large tactical error. It’s a no-man’s land in the combini. Those who tell you that Japan is a land of polite and patient people never had to battle for fried goodness before.

Before the clerk has a chance to say, “Tsugi no kyakusama, douzo”, I leap over to the open til and claim my spot. I then immediately order the remaining hot dog and beef croquette. It’s mine! And just as I thought it might be, the lady then tries to order the same thing and denied. That last train to flavor country is boarding and I have the last ticket.

As I walk out the door, towards my car, I can feel her eyes burning into my back. She has been relegated to the wasteland of nikuman and oden snacks. She is not a happy camper.

So ends another chapter is the constant battle for delicious Japanese convenience store snacks. If only they’d just cook up a few more at dinner time. Then we wouldn’t be at each other’s passive-aggressive throat. Grrrrr!

Hoikusho - Behind the scenes -

  This is the first in a series of articles that explores the Japanese education system: from a western perspective. I hope to give you an idea of what kind of things happen in these institutions of learning. Some things resemble North America to a shocking degree, while other things are just shocking. Today I will start with the most basic form of organized Education, 保育所(Hoikusho), or pre-school.

Continue reading ‘Hoikusho - Behind the scenes -’

In over my head?


Pictures and Frames

Originally uploaded by jasohill.

I was asked this week if I wanted to add some of my photos to the Hachimantai Art and Culture Festival. My photos would be displayed in the Ashiro town gym for a about three days to a week. I didn’t see how this could be a bad thing, so I went home, chose my 10 best “Hachimantai” pictures, put them on CD and had them printed.

The following day I went back to pick them up and realized they were 800 yen (around eight dollars) each. That came to around 8400 yen. Ouch! Then the store owner asks me if I’d like some frames for them. I mean, how can you display a photo at an exhibit without frames? So I go and buy ten frames. This costs me 750 yen a frame. Quite an investment indeed.

There are two ways I am going to rationalize this purchase. The first is that, as an ALT, it is my job to internationalize and show what foreigners are capable of. What better way to do this, then by visually demonstrating this. My second reason is to get my photos out in the open. I feel that if people see my work, they might be interested in seeing more.

I hope I’m right.

Fall in Hachimantai

   
Fall in Hachimantai
 

Originally uploaded by jasohill.

Fall has made it’s way to northern Japan. I was just out yesterday and noticed the veritable rainbow of leaves around me. Fall in Japan is more impressive than spring is. I took this photo from near the top of Hachimantai Mountain. I’m hoping to get out again on the weekend and shoot some more fall images. There are entire mountains full of color. The temperature has also dipped under th 10 degree mark. It’s time to start thinking about the ski season.

In other news, some of my Canadian friends made their way up here for a little one on one time with Jason. I would say most of them were a little surprised to see the lack of anything other than rice fields. I did warn them about this beforehand. Overall I think everyone had a good time. I only wish I had a car large enough to take them to some of the really cool spots. We did hit up an onsen and a few local toursits spots, however.

   One place in particular was called, “Taki no Yuu”, or “The waterfall bath.” We didn’t notice any waterfalls, but we did feel the 40+ degree temperature in the bath. You really being to appreciate which body parts are more sensitive to scalding hot water when you foolishly place them it in. My friend Chris remarked that he could see what parts of me were in the bath by the massive red line that formed on my back. Perhaps that bath was a little too hot.

Taki no yuu Hotel

There are still a few more visits in store before everyone makes there way back to Canada. I’m hoping to show them all the Japan that I have come to love. Sadly, there is just too much to see, and they are only in Iwate for a small period of time. Still, it’s better than them not coming at all. Have a good weekend!

The Principal and the Power

I had a really weird experience the other day. I wouldn’t say it was a big deal, but it was big enough to make me want to blog about it. It all started before the morning meeting….

Morning meetings are something that happen in just about every Japanese School. The teachers will stand up, say their greetings and talk about what is happening that day. It’s all fairly standard stuff; similar to what you might see at a morning sales meeting in Canada. On this particular day, however, the meeting wasn’t going to start very well, and I was the root of it all.

You see, I had been using the main staff room computer to print out a map of Canada. I was making a display board to show students and parents just how awesome Canada could be. I was not paying attention to the time and was still at that computer at the time the meeting started. The desk where the computer is also happens to be the place where the principal sits in for these meetings. He is usually in his crystal gondola, overlooking the school. He comes down to Earth for brief periods of time. The morning meeting happens to be one of those times. This time however he noticed I was at his desk and went to sit down over at the coffee table. This was nice of him to do, since I wasn’t done printing my poster. Then the bell for the morning meeting sounds and all of the teachers suddenly look at me like I’ve just announced the passing of the Emperor.

It seem that it is a nasty taboo to occupy the principal’s temporary desk. The teachers immediately started pleading for me to return to my own desk. At first I didn’t know what they were on about. Then after hearing some distorted mumbles and a “Kouchou-sensei”, I got the clue. I quickly moved back to my desk, and order was restored. The only person who didn’t seemed phased about this ordeal was the principal himself. He seemed rather calm about the whole thing. He even seemed to find it funny. He and I seemed to be the only ones who did, however. The remaining staff members looked terrified. Which is not a fun wat to start off a morning.

This isn’t the first time I’ve seen this sort of thing happen. I think it must harken back to the days of the samurai and his servants. It seems that if you had any sort of power at that time, then you were the man. You called all the shots and no one questioned you. If you didn’t have any power, then you feared those who did for what they could do to you. In this democratic and modern Japan, I would assume things had changed. But looking in the panic struck eyes of those poor staff members, perhaps they haven’t. I say this as a purely speculative assumption, and I am, by no means, trying to say it happens all the time. But it happens enough that gets my attention. I got over the issue rather quickly and moved on with my day.

My principal doesn’t seem like the type of person to come down on someone for a small goof-up such as that. Add to this assumption that he seemed to be letting me get my work done, instead of shooing me away to me desk, and he seems like a decent guy. Of course, in the future, I will be making sure to never be near that computer before a meeting starts. Not for fear that the principal would punish me, but so I don’t get the blood pressure of any other staff members higher than it should be. One of the key skills in working in a Japanese office is to make sure not to step on any toes. It’s a delicate dance that takes time to learn. I think I a finally becoming skilled at it.

Gender Role Panic

You might have heard that women’s rights are thirty years behind in Japan. That assumption might be correct, but it is not as black and white as it might seem. Like most things you’ll find in Japan, male and female roles take on their own culturally unique characteristics. Male dominance is still the order of the day, however, but this is starting to change, and I’ve seen these changes with my own eyes. I want to talk a little about what I have noticed in those regards.

If you’ve lived in Japan for any period of time, you might have seen these gender roles in action. Boys are considered “Cool” or こっこういい、and girls are supposed to be cute, or かわいい。 Both genders try their best to fit those images, and usually they succeed. For example, it is frowned upon for women to smoke in public, office ladies are also still responsible for the tea duties and are are not usually on the fast track to becoming anything more than said OL.  Men, on the other hand, are the ones fated to the working long hours at the office and wearing the cheap gray suits. They also have free reign of the porn and belligerency. We can also see this through the high domestic violence rate, with incidents that often go unreported.
You may see many similarities between these roles and the roles men and women in the U.S and Canada had in the 50’s, But there are some unique differences. Boys, for instance, regardless of how cool they appear to be, embrace the cute culture just as much as women do. I have seen many a boy walk down the hall with his own Winnie the Pooh or stuffed bear of choice. I should clarify that I’m talking about high school boys here. Boys also have a tendency to touch each other, all over. This is something that would surely brand you gay make you a target for ridicule in the west. This is not the case here, however. As for women, they also have many culturally unique traits. In a household for example, the woman usually controls the flow of money in the household. No one can buy anything unless their mother gives them permission. This also includes the husband. So, as you can see, there is a male dominance here, but it does have some interesting exceptions.

Recently, I have been noticing a change in these roles. My first clue came to me as I was sitting in the principal’s room on my first day at an Elementary school in northern Hachimantai. I glanced up at the wall and saw a series of portraits. Each one looking more distinguished than the next. There were about twenty in all, and all of them were of men. This was not too surprising. Many Japanese schools have these and they look pretty much the same. What was surprising, however, was that my school principal was a woman. The first woman principal I have ever worked for here. You can’t tell me that isn’t progress.
Another subtle clue of gender role change comes with the sheer numbers of women who are entering the workforce and choosing not to settle down. It’s become so common, that many old and angry men politicians are demanding that women return to the home and start having babies again. Sadly for them, the women aren’t budging, and that is something I am very glad to see. If you need another form a proof, I might also mention that my supervisor is a woman as well, and that there are many women in high places around my city.

So as you can see, even though Japan has been a male dominated society for a very long time, it seems the modern ways of doing things are finally having on impact on some of the archaic traditional cultural strongholds. Of course, this is a course Japanese people must choose for themselves. For me, women have always been a source of strengh and perseverance. If I had relied on my male influences, I might be drunk in some bar today without a future or a prayer. I am very impressed Japan is starting to see women the way I do.

Macaque Attack

I heard the most bizarre news when I got to school on Wednesday morning. It appears that a Japanese Macaque came down from one of the local mountains and walked into Tayama town. It then proceeded to find an elderly man and bite him. It was later photographed walking down a sidewalk. The monkey appeared to be very large and angry looking. The police force was dispatched; however despite having all of the latest monkey tracking abilities, they were unable to apprehend the primate perpetrator.

Japanese Macaques are known for finding local spas and soaking in them. It is unknown whether or not this particular macaque was simply looking for a place to unwind. The whether has been getting cooler here, and this would be the prime time for a visit to the local bath. Visitors to the Tayama spa reported seeing no monkeys on that day.

I have seen the famous photo and I hope to get a copy I can post here. This is case is still active until further notice. I will inform you if the big guy comes back down for more mischief.

The Hachimantai Mountain Bandit Festival

I just heard about this awesome festival held in my town this weekend. It’s called the Hachimantai City Mountain Bandit Festival, and it’s happening on all three days of this upcoming long weekend. The poster tells me that I will have 大満足(Great satisfaction) if I go. It appears to be the 14th festival of this kind. I suppose there are still mountains to be stolen.

There seem to be many great events on tap for the weekend, including Taiko drumming, eating until you burst and a national singing contest of some variety. I’m going to go out on Saturday and see what all the fuss is about. It’s might actually lead to great satisfaction. For those who really dig the Taiko, you can catch it on Saturday and Monday. The festival is literally five minutes from my door, so if you want come, let me know.

Amazon is king

 

Good news for those of us who order books and software from Amazon Japan. I was walking to school this morning and stopped by lawsons for a quick breakfast snack. Low and behold, there were amazon pre-paid cards waiting for me at the cash register. This is wonderful news for us who order from Amazon using the “Cash on Delivery” method. Previously, if you ordered using COD, they’d ding you 250 yen. Well, you can kiss that charge goodbye as of now. This means that I will be shopping online at Amazon Japan for years to come. I am not sure if this is an exclusive with Lawons or if they can be bought anywhere. I’ll let you know when I get home from work today.

A Toil of Two Cities

This week I have special treat for you all. Chris Covell is an expert in all things retro, and he is also a resident of Iwate prefecture. I have asked him about writing a series of articles on the retro gaming scene in Japan. He has agreed, but first, he wants to share something with us . I feel this is an issue we can all sympathize with. Therefore , without furthur ado, I present the first in, hopefully, a long series of editorials by Chris Covell.

A Toil of Two Cities

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times. It all just depends on where you live, of course.

Most people who play videogames have by now heard the tale of “ea_spouse“, the wife of a developer working at Electronic Arts. Her husband routinely worked horrendous hours, up to 85 per week, with no overtime or compensation. Since EA’s stance on overworking their developers was one of “Do it or find another job”, ea_spouse had no choice but to air her grievances publicly on a Livejournal blog. The upshot of the whole deal was a class-action lawsuit awarding $15.6 million to EA’s overworked artists, and a similar settlement of $14.9 million to its programmers.

I remember this tale far too often in my working week — not because I am worked too hard; far from it — but because it’s what I am thinking of when I see the sallow faces of some of my Japanese students. They are usually engineers, but sometimes public school teachers, or salespeople as well. They walk in, tired as hell, showing progressively thinner bodies and prematurely-aged faces. Of course, the working habits of Japanese people are legendary. Long hours, long commutes, short sleeps, devotion to the company: a Samurai spirit, as some poetically like to call it.

I don’t believe a word of it.

Aside from those people who truly are workaholics, who simply love working, I’m pretty sure that most Japanese workers who show the hard-working gaman, ganbarimasho spirit do it not out of a drive from within their souls, but rather out of pressure from without. I honestly feel that this distinction makes all the difference in the world. For one, everyone is expected to work late (nobody goes home early unless gender, a family, or some other hindrance provides an excuse) and then everyone often goes home, all at the same time. For another, whether salaried or paid hourly, a majority of this overtime work goes unpaid and unacknowledged by the company, and it also goes unmentioned by the worker. And yet another: they are afraid to face their bosses when they do have such complaints or grievances.

I’m not necessarily railing against this culture, because it is a part of the culture of Japan to work longer and keep one’s complaints to oneself. It is indeed admirable to work hard if you are truly driven from within and want to achieve mastery of your trade. However, workers in Japan are still flesh and blood. My students are regular people, with fascinating hobbies that they say they can’t enjoy enough; with families who complain they can’t see enough of their significant others; with dreams of travel which will remain mere dreams since the only way to take a vacation longer than 5 days is to quit one’s job and then take the trip.

In other words, they are people with unfulfilled dreams of full humanity, unfulfilled because they are constantly being told that they should not — dare not — reach for them. This isn’t a matter of a twisted culture (so don’t say I’m trying to impose my own culture on the Japanese) but specifically that elements within the culture take advantage of its tenets. Employers, businesses, and governments throughout Japan know full well that society discourages complaining and resistance, and so these same groups can cheat and exploit people with little fear of reprisal, prosecution, and so on. Doctors in Japan tell their patients that 5 hours is all the body needs for a full night’s rest. I wonder how the experts reached that figure?…

Japanese people are biologically identical in every way to the average Canadian, American, what-have-you; and the look on my students’ faces and in my students’ eyes tells me more clearly than any doctor that however much they sleep just isn’t enough. It is this that has to change. Workers somehow need to make their voices heard again, need to resist the exploitation that companies effortlessly foist upon them. When I watch TV shows such as Project X, an incredibly fascinating and deceptively inspirational program on NHK, I am torn by two mental images that conflict inside my head. One is that of a post-war Japan, striving through technology and industrialization to become a superpower in the world. The other is of a mountain of skulls of the workers who strove and died to make this happen…

So anyway, I was talking to a student (whom I also consider a friend) today about his weekend plans, and he told me he would have to go to work on Sunday, just like any regular working day. I asked him whether it was because of an important project that they had to finish, but he said that project had been finished. Crunch time was over. He appeared now to be working Sundays, as well as Saturdays and regular weekdays. Just as a matter of course. Of course, for engineers (like my student) or game programmers, or any project-based workers, working 7 days a week during crunch time is “”normal”", but there usually is the matter of time in lieu, compensation, an extended vacation when the project is finished, isn’t there? Yes indeed, my student said, his contract stated he could get extra time off at the end of a project, but apparently his boss doesn’t read contracts…

So, naively, I suggested he — contract in hand — simply ask his boss for this holiday, and ever-so-nicely point to the contract as a backup. He said his boss was a real hot-tempered type, likely to call him an idiot or lazy if he ever complained. (Or merely “asked”, in this case.) I said, no problem, just keep your cool and remain courteous, but explain clearly that this document which he had signed, and that a company superior had also signed, is a contract. It is a written agreement, legally binding, that both parties ought to — must, if you want to take it that far — stick to. The boss ought not to break the terms of that contract, which was written up not by my student but by his company, after all.

But I did of course realize the relative absurdity of what I was telling my student to do, so I said he could try doing this, but not be surprised if he gets fired (or more likely, transferred) for his temerity. It was at that point that I decided to tell my student the tale of “ea_spouse”, as a way of illustrating two things. One, that workers in America also fear reprisals for demanding their unpaid overtime wages (so Japanese workers are not alone in this.) Two, that the power of the internet: huge, anonymous communities that can send grassroots messages through word-of-mouth, can make a difference and can effect change, as can be seen in the total $30 million settlements from disgruntled EA workers.

My student understood this, but then went on to explain how a few workers in the same company as his did air their grievances about their employer on 2Channel (”ni-channel”, the largest internet forum in the world) a while ago. He didn’t tell me if the impact of this action was big or small, but the upshot of the whole deal was that his company forbade all workers from visiting 2Channel.

If you ever go to Japan on an English teaching job, you will eventually notice that your students often make mistakes on the usage of the words “overtime” and “overwork”. My advice: don’t correct them. For most Japanese people, they are one and the same.

Chris M. Covell (chris_covell@yahoo.ca)